LIENE x Double Notch September 28, 2016 – Posted in: Designers – Tags: , , , , ,

Everybody knows the words Billie Joe once said: ‘’Wake me up when September ends’’. It’s time.

The air is crisp, warm tones of autumn and never-ending grey sky are leaving the bold summer behind. Early morning in the foggy Riga – no better time to once again sit down and contemplate on latest fashion phenomena, world famous spy photo cameras, and Latvian mythology. This week we meet the wizard LIENE BUKOVSKA – multi-designer of KUMMA bags and accessories, latest member of Double Notch’s speckled and sparkly designer family.

The worst trend in fashion of 2016?

Transparency and nudity on red carpet. Also, Puma fur slides.

Color of 2016?

Stone white.

If you could choose any artist living or dead to collaborate with, who would you choose?

Charles-Édouard Jeanneret-Gris, who was better known as Le Corbusier.

‘KUMMA is an accessories brand based on the functionality, minimalism and smart design’ says your fb page’s bio. What exactly does ‘smart design’ mean for you?

Smart design adapts to a man and adjusts to the user’s habits

I always research the way that bag is used – how pockets are used, how the form of the bag adjusts to a body. One of the things my clients have admitted to be valuable are the inside handles which help you if you are looking for something in your bag. Those are the details, which doesn’t change the essentials but improves the usage of the product.

KUMMA Minox Double Notch

Tell me about the brand name – why‘KUMMA and is there any significant meaning behind?

Brand symbol is a fox – in Latvian mythology fox is known as “kūmiņš”, which symbolizes adaptability, agility, wisdom and sometimes even cunning. Name as well as brand essence is derived from this character. Also, those are the qualities that I find important to include in my products.

The perfect bag is the one that is comfortable while running around the city or going to office, at the same time being elegant enough to wear it when going out

What was the starting point that led you to accessories design and fashion in general?

To be honest, it was a long path, but I have been related to design since I remember myself. When I was opting for what do I want to do, it was either interior or fashion design. However, because of pragmatic and practical reasons I chose interior design. When I had to decide what to study for bachelors in Art Academy of Latvia I went with Product Design, basically because it was something I had already started. Although eventually for my masters diploma I chose in favor of my other strong interest – fashion. It was leading me there anyway.

Collection ‘’Minox’’ is well known and has been nominated for annual Latvian Design Award in 2015. Do you have a Minox camera of your own and how exactly the camera brand worked as an inspiration for you ?

I wish I had [laughing].
Couple years ago I aimed to create collections that are attached to important but almost forgotten figures, events or developments in Latvia. „MINOX” is a collection highlighting the history of the first miniature photo camera VEF Minox, created in Riga by Valters Caps and produced by the State Electrotechnical Factory (VEF) in 1930s. The camera rapidly gained recognition among undercover agents and spies all over the world. What made me immediately fall in love with this iconic product, was the minimalistic and futuristic design which perfectly fits my aesthetic taste. 

The color tonality of the “Minox” collection was based on a Minox poster from 1930s and the slogan of this collection is – the art of small living

KUMMA Minox Double Notch

You mostly work with leather. Is it an essential part of the brand or have you considered using different materials as well?

It depends on the idea of the collection. ‘KUMMA’ offers contemporary classics – I am bringing together industrial, slightly unexpected elements and the elegance and warmth of traditional leather-work. Essential part of this particular choice is the quality of material – leather is harder to outwear compared to its alternatives, which I find to be very important. Though I am not saying that it won’t ever change.

And the signature question of all Double Notch’s interviews. What do you think fashion needs the most nowadays?

To be honest, this is a hard one. There are two sides of every coin, it is clear that not everyone can afford it, but I think I would say that the industry definitely needs to avoid the cultivation of fast fashion concept.

Interview and photo of Liene by Eliza Aboltina
Look book photos by Monta Dedele

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